France 2004 (Paris, Normandy, Loire Valley)

Jewels of France September 2004 (Paris, Normandy, Loire Valley)

Traveling with Annabella’s parents, we took Cosmos Tours 9 day Jewels of France trip (in 2004, with a stronger dollar and lower gas prices, this trip cost $550 per person.  In 2009 that price is doubled, but it remains a good value, just not the bargain it had been 5 years earlier, and with a slightly changed itinerary).  We added additional days in Paris.  When booking an escorted tour, keep in mind that the number of days they state also include travel/flying days and partial days in the base city.  This tour actually has 6 full travel days.

---

11 September:
PARIS.

The tour group had a city tour of Paris, but since it covered the common sites we had already seen on prior trips, which ventured out on our own to explore new places.

Though my wife had seen the Catacombs before, I had not, so we took advantage of a rainy day to visit the miles and miles of bones from the Plague years that are in Paris underground.

Because we’re with a group and the hotel is included, we’re at the Ibis Paris Berthier, in the north of Paris.  It’s not a bad hotel, but it’s not a place we would stay on our own because it’s not near anything and not even particularly close to a good Metro station.

---

12 September:

PARIS-GIVERNY-ROUEN-HONFLEUR-DEAUVILLE.

Start the day with a visit to Giverny, home of painter Claude Monet.  The famous water garden at Giverny was the inspiration behind some of Monet’s finest work (gardens closed in winter).   We made a stop of a few hours in the lovely port of Honfleur (where we purchased some delicious sea salt caramels at a small shop) and a visit to St. Catherine’s Church, a 15^th century structure and the oldest surviving wooden church in France.  It was built by ship builders, and its ceiling is reminiscent of the bow of a ship.

Overnight in the seaside resort of Deauville.  Had we been traveling without the parents, we would have forsaken the included dinner at the hotel and just paid the extra to eat a better meal on our own since we served chicken in a city with delicious seafood.

---

13 September:
LANDING BEACHES-BAYEUX-MONT ST. MICHEL.

We visited the legendary beaches of Normandy, where the Allied troops landed more than 60 years ago, and we also stopped at the Caen Museum http://www.memorial-caen.fr/fr/circuit_tour/index.php?lang=EN.   We stopped all too briefly at one of the British cemeteries, which was only a stop at all because we had specially requested it of our tour guide.

Normally American groups are only taken to the American cemeteries, which is a real shame because the British graves usually include an engraving of a personal message chosen by their families and those are very sad and moving. The American Cemetery at Omaha is moving for its sheer vastness and the sea of white crosses.  In truth only about a quarter of American soldiers were buried in Normandy since many families had their bodies brought home, whereas British soldiers until recently were buried where they fell.

The busy day continued at Bayeux, famed for its lace-making and the world-renowned Bayeux Tapestry.  We were not expecting the tapestry to be so large/long.  We were given audio guides and walked around it in a circle with the guide explaining different events on the tapestry.

Then, southwards to the unique beauty of Mont St. Michel, which stands on an island reached by a causeway.  We arrived in the evening and walked from our hotel down to the Mont.  At night it is devoid of day trippers, and it is peaceful and quiet.  Because of the way the isle is lit at night, it is truly impressive and serene.

Our hotel is the Motel Vert, a basic hotel but very clean and walking distance from the Mont.

---

14 September:
MONT ST. MICHEL-TOURS.

The better part of the day was spent exploring the monastery, and en route to the Loire Valley we stopped at a butter cookie factory (yummy!).

Tonight we overnight in the city of Tours.  Our hotel is the Kyriad La Boetie, at Parvis de la Gare TGV, right in front of the train station.  There’s nothing to see in our neighborhood, but there are quite a few good, affordable small restaurants that are an easy walk away.

---

15 September:
CHÂTEAUX COUNTRY – LOIRE VALLEY-TOURS

There was a car rental place right in front of the train station, which was right in front of our hotel.  Since there were 4 of us, it made financial and practical sense to rent a car for the day.  We had not planned this in advance and had considered taking tours with Cosmos, but it was a lot cheaper and flexible for 4 to rent a car (and since it was just for a day we returned the car in the evening and didn’t have to worry about parking).  We visited the town of Amboise to visit the Chateau d’Amboise and also the Leonardo da Vinci sites.  He had lived in Amboise for a while as a guest of the King (and, arguably was buried there).  Later we visited the Château of Cheverny, still inhabited by the family of Marquis de Vibraze and noted for its large collection of hunting dogs (which we saw being fed).  We also saw a bit of the exterior of the great Châteaux of Chenonceaux, but they have cleverly set it up so that you can see very little without paying the admission fee.

---

16 September:
ROUEN-FOUNTAINBLEU-PARIS.

En route back to Paris we stopped first in Rouen to visit its great cathedral and the square where they burned Joan of Arc at the stake.  The town itself is graceful and is worth spending a few hours to walk around.

Heading back towards Paris we stopped for the afternoon at the Palace of Fountainbleu.  Foodies that we are when typing up this report years later we remember the grilled panini we bought from a small shop across from the entrance and ate in a small garden even better than we do the palace!

---

17 September:

PARIS.

Museum visits today to the Musee Rodin and the the Musee D’Orsay.  Favorites both not only because of the works they possess but because of their settings.  The Rodin has gardens with his sculptures throughout, and the D’Orsay is in a beautiful old train station.

---

18 September:

PARIS/ST. DENIS.

Last day of our trip is spent mostly visiting St. Denis, in the northern suburbs of Paris, just about 6 miles from the city center.  Saint Denis is highlighted by the Basilica which is the burial place of French royalty (and the perhaps heart of the poor little Dauphin??).  It is easily accessible by Metro or RER.  This is a little off the beaten path, but highly recommended (especially for those re-visiting Paris).  There’s also the Musee Bouilhet-Christofle, which contains beautiful objects of silver, including many Art Deco and Art Nouveau items (check on opening times because they are limited http://www.placesinfrance.com/musee_bouilhet-christofle_museum.html).  Also visit the Musée D’Art Et D’Histoire, located in a former convent (the nuns’ cells are still intact) and featuring exhibits on daily life in medieval St-Denis and on the convent’s most famous resident, Mme Louise (daughter of Louis XV who left her princess life to become a Carmelite nun)  http://www.musee-saint-denis.fr.

---