Buffalo Winter Weekend: 2009
Buffalo Winter Weekend: 2009
Thank you Jet Blue and your 9 hour, $9 dollar winter sale that started at 9 a.m. on December 19th. So the only city that actually was just $9 (as opposed to $49 or $79 or $99) each way was Buffalo, New York. Yes, we tried to get the $49 to Tampa tickets, but by 9:26 a.m. those were all gone. So Buffalo indeed. A committed traveler doesn’t let a little cold weather get in the way. We regretfully forgot our camera at home and were only able to take a couple of photos with the camera on my cell phone.
We didn’t have a guidebook but had looked things up online ahead of time and also picked up some very useful free guides at the airport and had gone to AAA for a city map.
January 10, 2009
Our 9:45 flight to Buffalo arrived on time just after 11. Buffalo is a very manageable airport, and the car rentals are right outside of baggage claim. We went to Enterprise and got our compact car (with Entertainment Book 10% discount coupon it was only $25/day plus taxes, total of $60.11 for 2 days) and were on the road by 11:19.
We headed to East Aurora to start our art weekend. We stopped at an artists cooperative behind Main Street, the Ashwood Artisans at 726 Main Street.
Vidler’s 5 & 10 is an East Aurora institution. The candy counter is a dream, and they have a popcorn machine where for one thin dime you can still get a little bag of freshly popped corn.
At the recommendation of various review websites we went to a late lunch at Bar Bill on 185 Main Street (716) 652-7959. The locals were friendly and echoed what the web reviews had suggested – to stick to the medium wings and not have the hot – which was good advice. My wife had the Buffalo regional specialty, beef on weck sandwich (a slow-roasted roast beef on a kummelweck roll, with fennel and kosher salt on top). Good eats at a good price.
We went back down the street to the Roycroft Campus.
The Roycrofters were an important part of the American Arts and Crafts movement, starting around 1897. Now the campus is being restored, and buildings are being reopened to the public. The Copper Shop is opened daily from 10 am – 5 pm and is now a store selling items manufactured by current Roycroft artisans and a few other artists. The building is beautiful, and the items for sale exhibit terrific craftsmanship and prices to match. Behind the Copper Shop is an old furniture factory that now contains a few shops.
So this picture is a great example of what happens when you forget your camera at home and buy a really cheap disposable camera at a CVS pharmacy that ends up destroying every single picture you took: you take a picture with your cell phone camera but only have memory for a couple of pictures, so you end up with a photo with your eyes closed. But you at least get a sense of the beauty of the shop and of the items for sale.
The terrible economy has forced Roycroft Pottery artist Janice McDuffie to move her operations back to her own studio, but we benefitted from the final days of her residency on the campus to purchase a gingko vase for our Craftsman home. Her items are still available online.
Janice told us about her glazes and her process. Our vase will be a complement to our Roseberry-Winn vase from Rhode Island.
We also purchased a Dard Hunter-inspired welcome mat.
Just off of Little People Lane is the Toy Town Museum, adjacent to the Fisher Price headquarters. It’s a delightful museum with Fisher Price and other toys. The docent at the museum told us that when toys were manufactured in East Aurora many decades ago that children were able to assemble toys and get paid a nickel when they returned the assembled toy. The museum is free and has a very large playroom in the back where kids can hang around for hours. They have frequent special exhibits. We were lucky to catch a Raggedy Ann and Andy exhibit.
The Roycroft Inn is directly across the street from the campus.
We had wanted to stay at the Lodge at Torrey Pines in La Jolla, California last fall, but rooms there are a minimum of $350 per night. We paid just $139 (AAA rate) at the Roycroft for an enormous suite/room filled with Stickley and Roycroft furniture. The Inn has been restored and is a work of art itself.
In keeping with our tradition of going to the movies on vacation, we went to the Aurora Theatre just a few blocks from the Inn. Prime time movie on Saturday night was just $6 for an adult ticket, and the concessions were sort of reasonably priced, too. The cinema dates back to 1925, and the lobby contains murals painted by a member of the Price (as in Fisher Price) family. Comfortable seats and a large screen. Good deal.
January 11, 2009
Excellent Sunday brunch at the Roycroft Inn with a good selection of foods. It’s just under $20 per person, and you get a small discount if you are a guest at the Inn.
We drove through downtown Buffalo to get a look at the architecture. For a city that has been in an economic downturn for about 40 years it does not have that depressed and run-down look that other cities (like Detroit) have. We could have a mansion for the cost of our little house in Newton. My wife sort of threw out the idea of buying ourselves a little Arts & Crafts summer home — wouldn’t even cost $100K. Too bad it’s so far.
First stop of the morning was Forest Lawn Cemetery, burial place of President Millard Fillmore and many Buffalo dignitaries. We primarily wanted to visit the Blue Sky Mausoleum, which was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright but not built until 2004.
Winter is not the best time to see the site because it was covered in snow, and we were only able to see a little of the top steps and the large part of the structure. If you’d like to be buried there, the website has information on purchasing a crypt.
The rest of the cemetery is beautiful. We saw a flock of geese bathing in the creek that runs through the cemetery.
From there we went to Chateau Buffalo to purchase some Niagara region wines.
They have a 5 tastings for $5 deal, but because we purchased wines they waived the price. We had a great conversation with the owner, who is also a big Wright fan and has photographed Wright sites in the area (available for purchase at the shop). They mostly sell wine, but we purchased some wine chocolates, and they have other regional items.
We had a reservation at 1:00 for a tour of the Darwin Martin House. We were very lucky to have Joseph Blatz, who is on the board of the Graycliff House and is an architectural historian, as our tour guide. The house is still very much in the midst of restoration, and we would love to go back in 10 years or so and see it furnished (and hopefully completed). We had the basic tour, but there are more in depth tours available on certain days.
A drive down Parkside Ave inspired us to stop for a slice at Mustachio’s Pizza at #285 (where their motto is “It’s right under your nose”). Not bad, the small seating area was not heated! We also stopped at an excellent Wegmans supermarket to purchase some Weber’s horseradish mustard.
Last Wright site of the day was the West Side Rowing Club Boathouse, designed by Wright but only built in 2006.
We caught the last ½ hour or so at SuperFlea flea market, close to the airport at 2500 Walden Ave, Buffalo/Cheektowaga (and marked on the AAA map). A large indoor flea market with all kinds of goodies, and food, too! See our photo for address and hours of operation.
We had to have Polish food while in Buffalo so went to dinner at Polish Villa. Overall disappointing, but good cheese pierogies and fair prices and friendly people.
Right across from the airport is Sleep Inn, which had the best reviews on TripAdvisor. The service was very friendly, the room clean, and at 7 pm they had fresh baked cookies (and the breakfast area always has tea and coffee). There was a decent continental breakfast in the morning, conveniently starting at 4:30 a.m.! Buffalo Airport is excellent in that the car rental counters are right at the terminal, so we dropped off our car the next morning and just walked right over to catch our flight.